Hmm …

… Food on a Mission - Alta Online. (Hat tip, Dave Lull.)

… there’s a sort of coping mechanism at work here: Affluent millennials reconciling the conflict between their aristocratic shopping habits and egalitarian ethics through “socially responsible” luxury food. More expensive equals more ethical. It is a radical reversal: costly gourmet food (the ultimate embodiment of wasteful spending) is conveniently repackaged as a symbol of fairness. Twelve-dollar cream cheese transforms from a symptom of economic inequality into the unlikely solution to it.