The piece is laugh-out-loud satire.
That Mr Gioia is laughing at these people is tipped off by his providing these key quotations::“All our coffees are light to medium roast.” “. . . pretty much everybody who works here has had a moment where a really, really good cup of coffee changed their lives.”For those who don’t drink coffee: this is hilarious because only dark roast (pretty much only French roast) can really change lives. Sheesh. Dilettantes.
He is a brave man for undertaking that trek.
In certain sections of Berlin (Prenzlauer Berg, for example), the coffee snobbery is almost as bad. Ah, all those wonderful creative types...(I almost wrote creative vegans.)